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Furnishings & DecorVive le Champagne!
Champagne is synonymous with celebration, fun times and the good life. Mention the name Moët and a seductive image of Scarlet, Eva or Claudia sipping on a glass of bubbly springs to mind. For most South Africans French Champagne is the ultimate luxury - a product that only the rich and famous can afford from time to time.
By Inke Gouws
Moët & Chandon, officially the world’s biggest Champagne House, has succeeded in making Champagne the most fashionable drink out there. With their multi-million Dollar ad campaigns, übercool soirées and beautiful packaging they have created an image of glitz and glamour associated with sparkling wine all over the world.
In 2007 I had the privilege of doing an internship at this money-making machine for a period of six months. While working at Moët in France I realised just how vital the ultimate luxury experience is to the image of French bubbly. Work consisted of hosting VIP guests and educating them on Champagne while presenting tastings and indulging in six-course food and wine pairings prepared by Michelin-star chefs. For this Afrikaanse boeremeisie from Stellenbosch, working in the home of Jean-Remy Moët was a complete eye-opener. Never in my life, could I have dreamt of being exposed to such grandeur and extravagance.
Upon my return to South Africa, I toyed with the idea of working for a local distributor of Champagne, but I quickly realised that it would not be half as entertaining and stimulating as my job at the M&C HQ in Epernay. I subsequently decided to make the bold move of becoming an importer of boutique Champagne – not having ever imported anything in my life. The first two years of business were a humbling experience and the challenge continues. Importing Champagne has made me appreciate the efforts that go into building brands like Moët&Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Laurent-Perrier. If it weren’t for these multinational corporates, no-one outside of France would know about this incredible drink and life would be far less exciting.
To be a Champagne agent is a very difficult job in the current economic climate and it takes an awful lot of determination to sell one bottle of bubbly when most people are worried about the cost of a loaf of bread or having a roof over their heads. Nevertheless, there is a very good reason why people like me are doing what we’re doing and there are still plenty of locals out there who keep us in business. In recent years, there has been a huge influx of imported sparkling wines into South Africa and every time I visit the leading specialist wine shops, I am amazed at the range of French Champagne that is now available locally. Jean-Philippe Colmant was one of the pioneers in Champagne importation and Cuvees Classiques has also done a brilliant job of educating South African palates on Champagne.
For my part, I have decided to tackle the Comrades training program of importation by focusing on the crème de la crème of Champagne and representing only the best in French boutique fizz. Since October 2007 I have been importing lesser-known Champagnes from small family domaines. At the moment, my passion is the wines of Grand Cru producer, Henri Giraud. This bijou of a Champagne house is based in Aÿ and has been around for twelve generations. It is currently owned by Claude Giraud and managed by his very dynamic daughter, Emmanuelle. Annually they produce 250 000 bottles and they are well-known amongst Champagne aficionados for making oak-matured food wines. The Esprit-range of Henri Giraud is lovely for every-day drinking, but if you would like to splash out a little, I can strongly recommend the 100 percent pinot noir-based Code Noir. The bottle is so ultra chic that it would make Coco Chanel stop in her tracks. The flagship of the house is the Fût de Chêne which is made in tiny quantities of 10 000 to 30 000 bottles per year and has been sold in Tokyo for twice the price of Roederer’s Christal.
Henri Giraud is excellent value for money in comparison to the big guns and has received great reviews from international wine writers such as Jancis Robinson and Robert Parker. In December 2009, Robert Parker awarded Henri Giraud the following ratings:
• Code Noir: 93 points
• Hommage à Francois Hemart: 92 points
• Esprit de Giraud Rosé: 91 points
• Esprit de Giraud Brut: 90 points
• Fût de Chêne 2000: 92 points
• Fût de Chêne 1999: 91 points
• Fût de Chêne 1998: 93 points
• Fût de Chêne 1996: 95 points
He also had the following to say about Henri Giraud:
This may be the finest Champagne house virtually no one has ever heard of. These traditionally made, wood-aged Champagnes include a luxury cuvee, the Grand Cru Aÿ Fût de Chêne, which is reminiscent of Krug in a slightly less oxidized style. Full-bodied, and tasting more like a honeyed white Burgundy with bubbles than a Champagne, this is a stunning effort.
On the local market, it has been very well received by the wine trade and I am confident that this brand is going to grow from strength to strength in 2010.
Boutique Champagne is a hand sell and not an item that should be sold in your every day restaurant. It takes a very convincing sommelier to explain the difference between boutique Champagne and the bigger brands like Bollinger, Taittinger, Krug and Pol Roger. My clients are mostly private individuals who like to spoil themselves from time to time with something special.
For more info regarding Champagne Henri Giraud, visit www.champagne-giraud.com
To book a tasting or view the latest price list, call Inke Gouws on 079 268 3779 or email inke@inkegouwschampagne.co.za
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